Aromas of India
Adapt the ancient wisdom
of India, where herbs and spices play a
vital role 
in cuisine, health-care and spirituality.
Article Written by Antara
B. Mitra
Growing up in India, I experienced the amazing ability
of spices and herbs, used in accordance with the seasons, to warm or cool the
body. No matter how blustery the winter weather might get, I know I can turn to
my spice cupboard to bring some of the warmth of India into my life. The sweet smell of cinnamon, pungent turmeric
and smoky cumin perk up my senses and take me home again. Of the many
spices and herbs used there, each region has its special flavorings.
The Spice of Indian
Cuisine
Turmeric (Curcuma
longa) is a bright yellow spice central to Indian cuisine. A member
of the ginger family, it is made by boiling and then drying the perennial’s
rhizomes. Called haldi in India, turmeric is in almost every dish
and is one of the main constituents of curry powder. Turmeric has a musky aroma
and is used as a base upon which other spices build their flavor. A word of
caution—the warm yellow color, though appealing, can stain almost anything.
Turmeric, which has its origin in South Asia, is used in Thai, Indonesian and Ethiopian cuisine as well.
The use of turmeric extends well beyond the kitchen in a
traditional Indian home. It is used in prayer and wedding ceremonies as an
offering and a symbol of God’s blessings. The spice also is prized for its
healing properties. Recent research suggests it might have the ability to fight
cancer and Alzheimer’s. In India,
traditional wisdom deems turmeric an immune booster, and people drink it in
warm milk to fortify health. Also regarded as an antiseptic, it is applied to
cuts and bruises and as a warm poultice on sprains. Turmeric also is a skin
conditioner thought to cure acne and blemishes. Brides-to-be are anointed with
turmeric for a radiant glow.
Cumin (Cuminum
cyminum), originally from Western Asia, is a member of the parsley family. To create the spice,
cooks dry roast or fry in oil the plant’s dried seeds to release their flavor.
Called jeera in India, cumin is another main component of
curry powder, along with coriander and turmeric. Cumin has a smoky flavor with
a strong bouquet. In India, people use two varieties—black
cumin and the more common, everyday variety, white cumin (which actually is
brown, not white). Cumin is popular in other parts of the world as well, such
as Mexico, Latin America, the Middle
East and North Africa. The French and Dutch use it to
flavor cheese.
Cumin is considered good
for digestion. Cumin water, or Jeera Pani
, is a popular cooling drink in North India during the summer months. Cumin also plays a part in South Indian
wedding ceremonies: The bride and groom apply a paste of cumin and jaggery (the traditional unrefined sugar
used in India) on each other’s hands to symbolize
their eternal union through the bitter and sweet moments of life.
Cinnamon, cardamom
and cloves are
the three most fragrant spices in Indian cuisine. They often are used together
to give a heady aroma and depth of flavor not possible with any one spice.
Cardamom (Eletaria cardamomum)
belongs to the ginger family and is native to both India and Sri Lanka. Called elaichi
in Hindi, it has a spicy, peppery aroma with sweet undertones and the raw
leaves leave a fresh mint taste in the mouth. Cardamom should be bought in its
pod, as this keeps the fragrance and flavor intact. There are two varieties of
cardamom: Green cardamom is the more commonly used; black cardamom (Amomum subulatum) has a more peppery
flavor and is used mainly in North Indian meat dishes.
Cloves (Eugenia caryophyllata) belong to the
myrtle family and are native to Indonesia, where they are used to flavor cigarettes rather than food. They are
unopened flower buds that are green when harvested and turn brown as they dry.
Called lavangain Hindi, cloves
have a sharp, woody, yet mintlike flavor.
Cinnamon (Cinnamomum zeylanicum) is a member of the
laurel family and is the dried inner bark of the tropical evergreen. Known as daalcheeni in Hindi, it has a sweet,
woody aroma. It, too, is native to India and Sri Lanka.
The sweet, nutty undertones
of these three spices make them equally at home in sweet and savory dishes. In Europe and America, they are used mainly in desserts. But Indian cooks rely
heavily on these spices to flavor meat dishes, heating them in a drizzle of oil
to release their aroma before adding to the meat. Alternatively, they sprinkle
the freshly ground spices on top of dishes to give an extra burst of flavor. In
the Middle East and North Africa, these spices frequently flavor coffee. They are all
considered warming spices, and Ayurveda (traditional Indian medicine)
prescribes their use to combat colds. A special tea called Masala Chai “Spiced
Tea” recipe) features them. Cloves and clove oil also are used to treat
toothaches. Cardamom is another auspicious spice that is offered in prayer. In
addition, people often eat cardamom seeds after meals to freshen breath and aid
in digestion.
Herbal Flavors of India
Indian herbs often are
overshadowed by their more powerful and colorful cousins, the spices. But herbs
are 
integral to Indian cuisine and many dishes would be
incomplete without them.
Cilantro (Coriandrum
sativum) belongs to the parsley family and is found in the Mediterranean, Asia and Latin
America. A popular
herb in Mexican cuisine, it is also one of the most common herbs in Indian
cuisine and often is added to lentil dishes. It closely resembles
curly-leaf parsley but has a distinguishing earthy lemon aroma with a peppery
edge. Cilantro leaves are delicate and bruise easily. They lose their flavor
upon being heated, so added them to a dish at the end of cooking or use them as
a garnish. The plant’s seeds, called coriander, taste quite different but also
are used extensively in Indian food.
Herbs are integral to Indian cuisine.
Cilantro is very easy to
grow indoors. A sunny windowsill and a fast-draining potting mix is adequate to
grow cilantro year-round. Pluck the leaves regularly to keep the plant bushy
and compact. Harvesting regularly delays flowering and extends its growing
period. I find partial shade adequate for my potted coriander, but it can also
grow in full sun.
Fenugreek (Trigonella
foenum-graecum), also called kasoori
methi in India, is a member of the bean family
that grows across the Mediterranean and Asia. Like cilantro, both the seeds and leaves are used in cooking but with
different applications. Fenugreek is pungent and has a bitter taste, so a
little goes a long way. Used dry, it keeps its flavor for a long time.
Fenugreek adds excellent flavor to spicy Indian soups, vegetable and meat
dishes.
Fenugreek is regarded as a
warming herb and is generally used in the cooler months. The seeds are thought
to be nourishing for pregnant and lactating mothers, helping them increase milk
production. The seed is often prepared crushed and mixed with jaggery and gram (chickpea) flour to mask its bitter flavor. The seeds
also are made into a paste and applied to the scalp to treat
dandruff, prevent hair loss and bring a shine to dull hair.
Curry leaf (Murraya
koenigii) belongs to the citrus family. Indigenous to India and called sweet neem, curry leaves
have a lime-like aroma and impart a slight bitter taste. They are used mostly
in South Indian cooking, especially in tangy lentil soups, such as rasam and sambar, that often are eaten with rice crepes (dosas). Despite its name, it is not an
ingredient in curry powder.
A fully grown curry leaf
tree is 13 to 20 feet tall, but potted plants will be smaller. Though extremely
sensitive to cold, curry leaf trees can live indoors over the winter. Fresh
curry leaves are highly desirable and many cooks refuse to even consider using
the dried variety. But they can be an acceptable alternative when used
appropriately. Cook dried
leaves longer and keep in mind that the flavor will be milder.
Indian basil (Ocimum
tenuiflorum), also called sacred basil, belongs to the mint family,
as does the sweet basil more commonly found in America. This cultivar differs
slightly in both taste and appearance from sweet basil. The leaves are smaller
and have a strong liquorish taste and aroma. Known as tulsi in India, it is not used as a culinary herb, but is thought to have
great medicinal value and is used to treat a wide variety of illnesses. A tea
brewed from the leaves is a popular remedy for colds. Indians also eat
the raw leaves to aid digestion, improve memory, strengthen the nervous system
and lower cholesterol.
Virtually every house in India has a tulsi plant. As children, we would pluck leaves right of the
tree and chew them. The plant is considered sacred in the Hindu religion and
women seeking a happy married life offer the plant prayers.
Recipes
Turmeric
Facial Mask
Makes 1 mask
This mask is a great
general skin conditioner that evens skin tone, prevents acne and imparts a
general glow.
2 teaspoons gram
flour (or regular flour)
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
Few drops honey and milk
Mix flour, turmeric and
honey and milk to make a paste. For very dry skin, use a few drops of olive oil
instead of the milk and honey. Apply to face and neck for 10 to 15 minutes. Rub
off with fingers and wash with warm water.
Cumin Rice
(Jeera Rice)
Makes 2 servings
This is the simplest of
rice dishes served on special occasions and festivals. This is my centerpiece
whenever I entertain and I always have guests asking for the recipe. It will
fill your house with the earthy aroma of cumin and rice as the two cook
together.
1 cup basmati
rice
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 1/2 cups hot water
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup frozen peas, thawed (optional)
Rinse rice and set aside.
Heat oil in a large saucepan; when hot (though not smoking), add cumin seeds
and let brown for 10 seconds, taking care not to burn cumin. Add rice and
gently coat with cumin-infused oil. Add hot water and salt and bring to a boil.
Turn heat to low, cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Add peas 5 minutes before
rice is done for a burst or color.
Cumin Cooler (Jeera Pani)
Makes 4 servings
In Hindi the name literally
translates to “cumin water.” People drink this cooling beverage in the
summer to quench thirst, improve digestion and eliminate flatulence. It also
relieves nausea and motion sickness. Tamarind paste is made from an Indian
date-like fruit, and garam masala and chat masala, optional here, are Indian
spice blends; all are available in ethnic markets.
2 tablespoons
tamarind paste
2 cups warm water
3 teaspoons whole cumin seeds
3 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger
1/2 teaspoon garam masala or chat masala
(optional)
1 tablespoon sugar or to taste
Salt to taste
Ice
Dissolve tamarind paste in
warm water. Lightly roast the whole cumin seeds and then grind to release
flavor. You can substitute powdered cumin but the flavor will not be as robust.
Add ground cumin and all other ingredients to tamarind water. Cool, add ice and
enjoy on a hot summer day.
Spiced Tea
(Masala Chai)
Serves 2
Traditionally, this tea is
very sweet with equal parts water and milk. Every family has its own recipe and
people adjust it for personal taste. Ready-made masala tea mixtures are
available in Indian food stores.
2 teaspoons loose
black tea or 2 tea bags
2 cups water
Ground masala (grind together 3 green
cardamom seed pods, 1/2-inch cinnamon stick
and 3 cloves)
Few slices ginger or 1 small bay leaf
2 to 4 teaspoons sugar
1 cup milk
Boil water in saucepan; add
tea leaves or bags. Cover and simmer 5 minutes. Meanwhile, shell cardamom seeds
and grind with cinnamon and cloves. Add ground masala and ginger or bay leaf
and sugar and simmer 2 to 3 minutes. Add milk and return to a boil. Remove from
heat and set aside for 2 minutes. Strain and serve.
Coriander Mint Relish
Makes 3/4 to 1 cup relish
This relish or chutney is
an excellent accompaniment to savory snacks like samosas or can be used as a
spicy sandwich spread. It will keep for a few days in the refrigerator.
1 teaspoon cumin
seeds
1 cup cilantro leaves
1/4 cup mint leaves
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon plain yogurt
1 small clove garlic
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Salt to taste
2 green chilies (optional)
1 to 2 tablespoons dried coconut (optional)
Roast and grind cumin
seeds. Combine all ingredients in a food processor or blender. Make a paste
using a little water if necessary. If paste is a little runny add a few drops
of olive oil to bind it. Adjust seasoning according to taste. The chutney
tastes even better the next day once all the flavors have melded.
Fenugreek Beans
Serves 2 to 3 as a side
dish
This is a spicy vegetable
dish that’s great served with rice or pita bread.
2 tablespoons
vegetable oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 tablespoon dried fenugreek
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon chili powder
1/4 teaspoon turmeric
1 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups French-cut green beans cut into
1-inch pieces
1 tomato, quartered
1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Heat oil in a wok or large
pan. Fry onion until translucent. Add garlic followed by all the dry spices and
cook for 2 or 3 minutes until spices are well browned. Add beans, tomato and
some water and simmer. Add vinegar when beans start to get tender. Add a dash
more dried fenugreek and cook for 5 minutes to let water evaporate. Serve with
rice or pita bread.
Article reprinted with permission from The Herb Companion magazine, a
division of Ogden publications.
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Article
written by Antara
B. Mitra
Antara
B. Mitra is a freelance writer and independent radio producer living in
Manlius, New
York. She
loves traveling and sampling new foods.
All rights reserved.
Copyright © Ogden Publications, Inc. 2007